Barbells & Labrets: Sizing, Fit, and Tips
Choosing the right jewellery can make all the difference to how it looks, feels and fits. Whether you're replacing a lost piece, downsizing after a new piercing or simply changing your style, understanding jewellery sizing helps you choose with confidence.
Barbells and labrets are measured using two key measurements: gauge and bar length. Once you know what these measurements mean, finding the right jewellery becomes much easier.
In this guide, we'll explain how barbell and labret sizing works, the differences between flat-back labrets, straight barbells and curved barbells, and how to measure your existing jewellery so you can find your perfect fit.
Jump to a section
- Understanding Piercing Sizes
- What Is Gauge?
- What Is Bar Length?
- Flat-Back Labrets vs Straight Barbells vs Curved Barbells
- Standard Size Guide
- Internally vs Externally Threaded Jewellery
- Piercing Bar Downsizing
- Ordered the Wrong Size or Need to Downsize?
- How to Wear Labrets
- How to Wear Barbells
- FAQs
Understanding Piercing Sizes
Choosing the right jewellery size comes down to four simple factors: gauge, bar length, bar type and threading mechanism.
Choosing the correct gauge and bar length helps ensure your jewellery fits comfortably, looks balanced and is suitable for your piercing.
Even a difference of just 1 or 2mm can noticeably change how your jewellery looks and feels, which is why the same size won't suit everyone.
What Is Gauge?
Gauge refers to the thickness of the bar that passes through your piercing. It's measured in gauge (G) and millimetres (mm). One of the most common points of confusion is that the lower the gauge number, the thicker the jewellery.
Choosing the correct gauge is just as important as choosing the right bar length. Your jewellery should match the size of your healed piercing to ensure a comfortable, secure fit.
18G (1.0mm): Slightly thicker than a standard earring post and commonly used for both lobe and cartilage piercings.
16G (1.2mm): A thicker post that's widely used for cartilage piercings.
Please Note: The correct gauge depends on how your piercing was originally performed and how it has healed. If you're unsure which gauge your piercing requires, it's best to check your existing jewellery or ask a professional piercer before changing sizes.
What Is Bar Length?
Bar length refers to the wearable length of the jewellery, measured from one end of the bar to the other. The decorative top, ball or flat back isn't included in this measurement.
Choosing the correct bar length helps your jewellery sit comfortably. A bar that's too short can feel tight and put unnecessary pressure on the piercing, while a bar that's too long may move around more than you'd like or catch on clothing and hair.
Most healed piercings feel and look best with a well-fitted bar, although freshly pierced ears are often fitted with a longer bar by a professional piercer to allow room for swelling during the initial healing period.
Flat-Back Labrets vs Straight Barbells vs Curved Barbells
Although flat-back labrets, straight barbells and curved barbells are all measured using gauge and bar length, they're designed for different piercing placements and have different advantages.
Flat-back labrets have a smooth disc on one end and a decorative top on the other. The flat back sits comfortably against the skin, making them one of the most popular jewellery styles for everyday wear. For some piercings, such as the tragus and forward helix, a flat-back labret is often the most practical jewellery choice due to the limited space behind the piercing.
Barbells have a straight bar with a removable ball or decorative end on each side. They're designed for piercings where the jewellery passes straight through the tissue, such as industrial, tongue and nipple piercings.
Curved barbells Curved barbells have a gentle bend that follows the natural shape of certain piercings. This allows the jewellery to sit more comfortably in areas where a straight bar isn't suitable.
| Feature | Barbell | Labret |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Most ear piercings | Most ear piercings, especially the tragus and forward helix |
| Comfort | Less comfortable when sleeping or wearing multiple piercings | More comfortable thanks to the smooth flat back |
| Easy to Insert | Easier to insert from the front | Trickier to insert from the back. Takes practice and may require a taper tool |
| Changing Jewellery | Remove the whole post to change the design | Keep the post in place and simply swap the decorative top |
| Tightening | Easier to grip and tighten thanks to the larger surface area | Can be slightly trickier to tighten due to the smaller gripping surface |
| Security | The ball comes loose, only the ball is usually lost | The decorative top comes loose, so the top is usually lost |
| Back of the Jewellery | Ball visible behind the ear | Smooth flat back sits flush against the skin and comes in different shapes |
| Snagging | More likely to catch on hair or clothing | Less likely to catch on hair or clothing |
Standard Size Guide
The guide below shows the gauges, bar lengths and bar type most commonly worn for popular ear piercings. Use it as a helpful starting point when choosing your jewellery, keeping in mind that the ideal size depends on your anatomy, piercing placement and whether you prefer a snug or more relaxed fit.
Please Note: This is a general sizing guide for reference only. Every piercing is unique, so the ideal size can vary from person to person. If you're unsure which size to choose, you may need to try more than one bar length. Our replacement labret bars are a great way to test the fit before investing in a complete piece of jewellery. Alternatively, you can visit a professional piercer who can assess your piercing in person.
With Bling Tip: If you already have piercings that fit comfortably, measure the gauge and bar length before ordering new jewellery. Matching these measurements is usually the easiest way to achieve a similar fit.
Internally vs Externally Threaded Jewellery
When shopping for barbells and labrets, you'll often see jewellery described as internally threaded or externally threaded. This simply refers to the jewellery's screwing mechanism.
Internally Threaded
With internally threaded jewellery, the removable end has a small threaded pin that screws into the hollow bar. This means the part that passes through your piercing is completely smooth.
Externally Threaded
With externally threaded jewellery, the bar itself has threads, and the removable end screws onto the outside of the bar. This means the threaded section passes through the piercing during insertion and removal.
| Feature | Internally Threaded | Externally Threaded |
|---|---|---|
| Comfort During Insertion | Smooth post glides through the piercing. | Exposed threads pass through the piercing. |
| Risk of Irritation | Lower, as there are no external threads. | Higher, as the threads can rub against the piercing. |
| Suitable For | Healed and healing piercings. | Best suited to fully healed piercings. |
| Changing Jewellery | May take slightly longer to align and tighten the top. | Often quicker to screw together. |
| Quality | Commonly found on premium jewellery. | More common on budget jewellery. |
| Our Recommendation | Best choice for comfort, healing and everyday wear. | Suitable for fully healed piercings, but generally less comfortable during insertion. |
With Bling Tip: At With Bling, our barbells and labrets are internally threaded. The smooth bar is designed for comfortable jewellery changes while providing a secure fit for everyday wear.
Piercing Bar Downsizing
Many new piercings are fitted with a slightly longer bar to allow room for swelling during the early stages of healing. Once the swelling has gone down, your piercer may recommend changing to a shorter bar, a process known as downsizing.
Downsizing can help reduce unnecessary movement, minimise snagging on hair and clothing, and improve overall comfort. A well-fitting bar is also less likely to shift around throughout the day.
It's important not to downsize too early, as your piercing still needs enough room to heal comfortably. If you're unsure whether it's time to change your jewellery, speak to your piercer before replacing the bar.
Want to know when to downsize and why it's so important? Read our Piercing Bar Downsizing: Why It Matters and When to Do It for everything you need to know.
Ordered the Wrong Size or Need to Downsize?
No stress. There's no need to replace your entire earring. With Bling's flat back labret piercings are interchangeable, allowing you to simply swap the bar for a different length or gauge while keeping the same decorative end.
Our replacement labret bars are available in a range of sizes, making it easy to find a more comfortable fit without buying a whole new piece.
Before ordering, check the product page to make sure your jewellery is interchangeable. Compatible replacement bars will be listed on the product page.
How to Wear Labrets
How to Wear Barbells
FAQs
What gauge are most barbells and labrets?
The most common gauges are 16G (1.2mm) and 18G (1.0mm), although some lobe piercings also use 20G (0.8mm). The correct gauge depends on how your piercing was originally pierced, so it's always best to check your existing jewellery or ask your piercer if you're unsure.
How do I know which bar length I need?
The easiest way is to measure jewellery that already fits comfortably. If you're buying jewellery for a new piercing, follow your piercer's recommendation, as they may initially fit a longer bar to allow room for swelling before downsizing later.
Do I need to downsize once my piercing has healed?
Yes. Many people switch to a shorter bar once their piercing has fully healed for a more secure and comfortable fit. However, you should only downsize when your piercer confirms your piercing is ready.
Are internally threaded barbells and labrets better?
Many people prefer internally threaded jewellery because the smooth bar passes through the piercing during insertion and removal, making jewellery changes more comfortable. Internally threaded designs are also commonly found on premium-quality piercing jewellery.
What's the difference between a labret and a barbell?
A flat back labret has a flat disc on one end with a removable ball or decorative end on the other. A barbell has removable ends on both sides and may be straight or curved, depending on the piercing it's designed for.
Can I use replacement bars from different brands?
Not always. Our piercing bars are designed to complement With Bling jewellery. Compatibility with products from other retailers cannot be guaranteed, as threading mechanisms may vary even when specifications appear similar.
